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Barra Grande & Marau by Bus and Boat Traveling on a budget
Traveling by bus in Brazil is a safe, clean and cheap option for traveling the interstate highways of Brazil. Southern Bahia and its amazing beaches, however, is a complicated maze of roads and waterways, and there is no such thing as a straight line from one point to another (this is also a blessing, of course, but we'll keep to one topic for now). The trick to traveling around the Bahia’s Dende Coast is knowing the best way to divide your trip between land and sea, and here we try to explain you best options for budget travel between Salvador, Barra Grande, the Marau Peninsula, Itacare and Ilheus. This is will also help you if you are going to (or coming from) Morro de Sao Paulo and Boipeba.
I WANT TO TRAVEL FROM:
Barra Grande & Taipu de Fora from Ilheus - Bus and Boat
Step 1 - Get to the Ilheus bus terminal (rodoviaria)
If you're coming from the airport, you'll need to spend a little for a taxi to get to the bus station. It's a ten minute drive and costs around 30 reais.
Step 2 - Bus from Ilheus to Camamu
Once at the Rodoviaria, look for either of these 2 companies: Aguia Branca, which has 2 direct buses per day to Camamu (08:00 and 14:20), or Rota, which has hourly buses to Itacare, from where you can catch one of the frequent buses to Camamu.
Step 3 - Speedboat (Lancha Rapida) from Camamu to Barra Grande
Arriving in Camamu, the bus will let you off along the canal directly in front of the main pier and office of Camamu Adventure. There you can purchase your ticket for one of the hourly speedboats to Barra Grande. If they are sold out, you can always find one of the independent speedboats that will take you for the same price. If you enjoy a true local experience, a bigger and slower “local” boat leaves around 13:00. It’s cheaper and takes longer, but definitely more interesting. The normal price is 30 BRL, with a discount during the low season. Travel time is about 40 minutes, and 1:20 for the slow boat.
* Beginning in 2016, there is a new “preservation tax” of 10 BRL per person that is paid on arrival in Barra Grande.
If you are staying in Taipu de Fora
You will need to take a taxi or hop on one of the jardineiras (pick-up trucks with benches in back) if they are still running. You’ll find the taxis and the jardineiras straight ahead from the pier as you walk towards the Vila de Barra Grande.
Total Cost:
Taxi from Ilheus Airport to the bus station, 30 reais. Bus tickets to Camamu, between 35 and 45 reais, per person. Speedboat to Barra Grande, 25 to 30 reais per person, depending on time of year. New preservation tax in Barra Grande, 10 reais per person. Grand total… 90 to 100 BRL per person if you took a cab in Ilheus.
Average Travel Time:
4 1/2 to 5 hours, assuming short waits in between connections
Important!
- Do not attempt this if you are going to beaches south of Barra Grande. It will take a long time and you will end up spending more than with a private transfer.
- Do not attempt this if your flight lands after mid-day. You risk missing the last boat to Barra Grande, and you’ll end up sleeping in Camamu.
- If there are 3 or more in your party, you’re better off getting a private transfer. It will cost around the same per person, and you'll get there more comfortably in half the time.
Quick Tip! Don’t forget to get cash at the Ilheus airport or at the Banco do Brasil in Camamu. There are no banks or ATM's in Barra Grande.
How to get to south Marau beaches from Ilheus or Itacare
(Includes Cassange, Saquaira, Algodoes and Arandis)
If there are two or more traveling together, the most practical option is to contract a private transfer to your hotel on Marau Peninsula. If you take the route Ilheus - Camamu - Barra Grande (by boat), you will still need to take a taxi to southern Marau and end up spending more.
Bus - Itacare - Marau - Campinho:
If you are adventurous, there is one bus per day from Itacare to Marau that departs at 17:00. From Marau it travels up the peninsula to the northern town of Campinho, stopping only along the main road (BR 030). You should only do this if you have arranged for a pick-up with your hotel, since most are quite far from the main road.
- Don't count on this bus if the weather is bad. There are frequent cancellations.
- Don't forget you will be arriving at night, so a flashlight is always helpful.
- Don't do this if you're going to Barra Grande or Taipu de Fora.
How to get to Barra Grande & Taipu de Fora from Itacare
See how to get to Barra Grande from Ilheus. You'll just be starting from the Itacare bus terminal.
Important!
If you are going anywhere other than Barra Grande, this option can be more expensive than hiring a professional car service, since you must still pay for a taxi from Barra Grande to your destination.
Airport Transfer & Taxi
All of our transfers offer:
• Professional, courteous drivers
• Cars to suit your needs
• Excelent service and avalue
Serving Barra Grande, Maraú, Itacaré e and the Dende Coast
From Salvador to Barra Grande & Marau (by bus)
Step 1 - Get to the main ferry boat terminal (Terminal Maritimo Sao Joaquim)
* Do not take the passenger ferry that leaves from the Mercado Modelo! You need to take the ferry to Bom Despacho where the bus terminals are.
From Pelourinho – Take the famous Lacerda Elevator from the Praça Tomé de Sousa in the upper city down to the Mercado Modelo, and from there take a short taxi ride to the Ferry Boat terminal. You might be tempted to walk there, but don’t. It’s a very short and cheap taxi ride, and he will drop you off inside the terminal.
From the Salvador airport or downtown Salvador – There is a direct local bus that goes from the Salvador airport to the ferry boat terminal, but you should only take the bus if you feel confident… a little Portuguese goes a long way here. DO NOT take the local bus that requires a bus change in downtown Salvador. A regular taxi will cost between 65 and 85 reais, depending on the time of day.
Step 2 - Ferry Crossing from Salvador to Bom Despacho, Itaparica
Once at the terminal just follow the signs to "Bilhetes" to buy your tickets. The ferries leave on the hour every hour on the hour, and you will be crossing the scenic Bay of All Saints to the island of Itaparica and the port town of Bom Despacho. It's safe, fun, and a great way to meet people, even if you don't speak Portuguese! Current prices are R$ 4.80 during the week and R$ 6.00 on weekends, and the crossing takes one hour.
Step 3 - Bus from Bom Despacho, Itaparica to Camamu
After docking in Bom Despacho, you will descend the boat ramp and immediately see the ticket booths and the buses. Go to the bus company Aguia Branca, and try to get on an express bus to Camamu. If there is no direct bus, buy a ticket to the city of Valenca on the first available bus, but wait until you are at the Valenca bus terminal to buy your second ticket to Camamu... see why below. Bus fares range from 32 – 38 BRL, and it should take around 4 hours to Camamu.
Step 4 - Speedboat (lancha rapida) from Camamu to Barra Grande
Camamu Adventure catamaran to barra grande
The bus terminal in Camamu is directly in front of the canal, where you will see a pier and the office of Camamu Adventure. There you can purchase your ticket for one of the hourly speedboats to Barra Grande. The normal price is 30 BRL, with a discount during the low season. Crossing the Bay of Camamu takes around 30 or 40 minutes, depending on stops.
Travel Tips:
- Don’t buy the second leg to Camamu in Bom Despacho. There are other companies at the Valença bus station with shorter connection times.
- The last ferry that you can take from Salvador is at 11 AM. After that, you risk missing the last speedboat crossing from Camamu to Barra Grande.
- If you want to take the slow "locals" boat from Camamu to Barra Grande, you can save some money, plus it's a great way to meet a few locals along the way. It leaves around 1 PM, so you would have to take the 7 AM ferry crossing from Salvador.
* There is a new “preservation tax” of 10 BRL per person that is paid on arrival in Barra Grande.
If you are going to Taipu de Fora
If you staying in Taipu de Fora, Cassange, Saquaira or Algodoes, you will need to take a taxi unless you have already arranged transportation. We can try to arrange an English speaking driver if you would like, at no additional cost. If you're just going to Taipu de Fora from Barra Grande, see if the jardineiras (pick-up trucks with benches in back) are still running.
Total Travel Time: Minimum 6 1/2 hours, including boat to Barra Grande.
Total Cost: Average cost is around 85 to 95 BRL per person, not including the costs of getting to the Salvador Ferry Terminal.
How to get to Itacare from Salvador
Follow the same route from Salavador to Barra Grande, and in Bom Despacho, try to buy a ticket direct to Itacare from the bus Company Cidade Sol. If it's a long wait for the direct bus, take the first bus from any company going to Camamu. From Camamu there are frequent connections to Itacare.
Average cost for the bus: 45 - 55 reais (does not include getting to Bom Despacho.
Average travel time: 5 hours from Bom Despacho
Airport Transfers & Taxi
From Ilheus - Once at the airport, the easiest way to get to the Marau Peninsula is by car transfer. If the main road along the peninsula (BR-030) is in good shape, you should arrange to go directly to your hotel or wherever you will be staying.
If conditions are bad, you can opt to go to the town of Camamu, and from there catch one of the hourly speedboats to Barra Grande. If you final destination is not Barra, you'll need to hire one of the taxis that wait near the pier.
- Travel time from Ilheus (by car): 2 to 2 1/2 hours, depending on which beach you are going to.
- Cost: Around 300 to 350 BRL, depending on the destination. Prices go up a little at night or in bad weather.
From Salvador - If you are coming from Salvador Airport or the city (including the Pelourinho), you should book your transfer to start from the island of Itaparica, on the other side of the Baia de Todos os Santos. Getting there is easy, even for non-Portuguese speakers. There are two main ferry crossing, and you should use the ferry terminal that is next to the famous Mercado Modelo, with hourly crossings to the town of Mar Grande on Itaparica. Starting your transfer from there will save you time and money, and it's a pleasant and scenic boat ride as well!
From the town of Mar Grande you can get a transfer to the town of Camamu, from where you catch the speed boats to Barra Grande, or you can drive directly to the peninsula if you are going to the southern Marau beaches of Cassange, Saquaira or Algodoes. You definitely need to book a transfer ahead of time, and always hire a company that specializes in transfers to Marau, since the road conditions are constantly changing.
- Travel time from Itaparica (by car): 4 to 6 hours depending on your
- Average cost: Between 400 and 700 BRL, depending on your destination.
Air Travel
The two airports that serve the region are Ilheus (IOS) and Salvador (IOS). Of the two, Ilheus is the better choice, since it is closer and cheaper to get to, especially if you want to take an airport transfer to the Marau Peninsula. You may want to use the Salvador airport, however, if you are traveling north to other beaches along the coast or vice versa.
Travel tip: One-way air fares are half the price of round-trip fares, making it easy to fly into one airport and leave from another.