Guide to Boipeba Island - History, Culture & Beauty
Nobody can read minds, but when people close their eyes and try to picture a quiet, tropical paradise, it probably looks a lot like Boipeba. Warm, calm and crystal clear waters surround Boipeba to the east, with a maze of rivers and dense mangrove forests surrounding the rest of the island. Uninterrupted Mata Atlantica (Atlantic rainforest) and palm groves hug its 20 kilometer reef-lined coast, and twice a day the receding tide creates perfectly calm, transparent aquariums that snorkelers can share with the tropical fish. There are no cars, no mega-resorts, no banks and no stress. Everything about Boipeba is authentic Bahia, including the natives, the architecture, the food and the cultural events. If you are looking for a hopping nightlife with occasional visits to pretty beaches, go to Morro de Sao Paulo. But if you are looking to wake up and go to bed with the sun, not wear shoes and enjoy all that unspoiled nature has to offer, visit Boipeba.
Most of the Dende Coast has remained unspoiled because of difficult access, and thankfully, Boipeba is no exception. It is located on the southern end of the archipelago of Tinhare, just below its more famous neighbor, Morro de Sao Paulo. Boipeba’s 20 kilometers of coastline is divided into 7 separate beaches, each one unique and no less beautiful than the next. Two of Boipeba’s beaches, Morere and Cueira, are consistently listed among the best beaches in Brazil, although this distinction is really splitting hairs when one is on an island this beautiful.
The original settlement of Velha Boipeba, the principal village on the island, dates back to 1535. Most of the island’s residents live here, along with most of the island’s pousadas. The Centro is paved with cobblestone streets and well lit at night, with street vendors, shops and restaurants that were invisible during the day. There is no crime here and the locals are extremely friendly, and the only minor annoyance might be a pushy tour vendor. During the day, the most sought after beach is Morere, consistently ranked in the top 10 beaches in all of Brazil. The rustic beach restaurants serve some of simplest, yet tastiest seafood dishes in all of Bahia.
Beaches & Sights of Boipeba
These are the beaches of Boipeba Island from north to South.
Praia Boca da Barra
Boca da Barra is the first beach on Boipeba, and the closest to the main village of Boipeba Velha. This is where the Rio do Inferno (River of Hell) meets the Atlantic, and it also serves as Boipeba’s main port. Restaurants and shops line the river’s edge, and it’s the best beach if you prefer more crowds.
Praia Outeiro & Pedrinhas
Outeiro Beach is a continuation of Boca da Barra, with some great beachfront hotels. Great for swimming, with several natural pool formations during low tide. Just next to Outeiro is Pedrinhas, with rock formations that make for some great photo ops.
Praia do Tassimirim
Tassimirim is characterized by long stretches of palm trees, with calm waters lined by coral reefs. The tidepools are great for snorkeling, and there are a few beach huts serving traditional Bahian food and beer. It’s also the main spawning beach for marine turtles on Boipeba.
Praia da Cueira
Considered one of the most beautiful beaches of Boipeba, Cueira Beach sits inside a bay with crystal clear, warm waters and long stretches of preserved coconut groves. Here you’ll find a well-known shack that serves its famous lobster with a butter sauce. At the southern end of the beach is the picturesque, mangrove lined Rio do Oritibe.
Praia do Moreré
Ranked in the top five beaches of Brazil (Guia Quatro Rodas), Morere is the most famous beach on Boipeba. The transparent waters and coral reefs make Morere one of Brazil’s most beautiful natural aquariums, with diverse species of tropical fish. Pure white sand, blue waters and Atlantic Rainforest combine to make Morere a once in a lifetime beach experience. There are a few great restaurants here too!
Praia do Bainema
At the south end of Morere begins a beautiful trail lined with various types of fruit trees that leads to Bainema Beach. It’s one of Boipeba’s longest stretches of beach, lined with coconut groves and dense Mata Atlantica. This isolated beach is a target for hard-core beach hikers and is a 2 ½ hour hike from Velha Boipeba.
Ponta dos Castelhanos
Boipeba's southernmost beach is wild and deserted, characterized by an extensive reef system and dense vegetation. The remains of one Brazil’s oldest shipwrecks, the Madre de Dios, is still visible, making it a popular destination for divers.
Cova da Onça
Cova da Onça (Lion's Cove) is the southernmost fishing village on Boipeba, and more interesting culturally than for its natural beauty. It has become an obligatory lunch stop for the tour boats, and the crowds might be a turn off for some. Great stop after a long hike, though, And the people are really friendly!
How to Get to Boipeba from Ilheus
Ilheus x Boipeba by Bus
This option definitely the least expensive, but not very efficient. You have to go from the airport to the bus station, which takes 20 to 30 minutes, depending on traffic. You have to take a cab or Uber, so the bus isn't as economical as it seems at first glance.
From the Ilheus bus station, try to find a bus directly to Bom Despacho or Valenca. Your destination is the small village of Graciosa, and both of these buses will pass through Graciosa. If you are not able to catch one of these buses, take the first bus to Itacare, from where you can find more frequent buses to Bom Despacho or Valenca.
Graciosa is a small town that sits along the river that goes to Boipeba. You will find the ticket booth for speedboats at the entrance of the pier.
The speedboat costs 60 BRL at the time of writing.
Tip: You must alert the driver that you want to get off in Graciosa, otherwise he will pass without stopping.
Travel Time to Boieba from Ilheus: 4 hours by bus, plus 40 minutes by speedboat from Graciosa to Boipeba.
Advantages of the bus:
- Low cost bus ticket
- The bus leaves you at the pier where you catch the speedboats to Boipeba
Disadvantages:
- Getting to the bus terminal from the airport can be a hassle
- The bus schedules may not be convenient
Private Transfer to Boipeba from Ilheus
Private transfers are by far the most convenient option for those traveling to Boipeba from Ilheus. There's no waiting, the cars are more comfortable, the journey takes less time, and the driver can help with any additional information you might need. This is the best option for 2 or more people traveling together, or for someone traveling alone who prefers greater convenience.
Advantages:
- No waiting
- More comfortable vehicles
- Door to door service
Disadvantages:
- Prices higher for solo travelers
Travel Time: 3.5 hours from Ilheus to Graciosa, 40 minute speedboat to Graciosa
Distance between Ilheus and Itacare: Approximately 75 km from the Ilheus Airport to the center of Itacare
Cost of bus ticket: R$ 29 BRL
Get in touch for a quote on a private transfer...
How to Get to Boipeba from Salvador
By Bus
There are basically 3 ways to get to Boipeba from Salvador. Each has its advantages, and range from expensive to economical. As everything in life, convenience has a cost. Let’s start with the most economical way to get to Boipeba Island.
Step 1 - Get to the main ferry boat terminal (Terminal Maritimo)
* Do not take the passenger ferry that leaves from the Mercado Modelo! You need to go to Termnial Sao Joaquim and take the ferry to Bom Despacho where the bus terminals are.
From Pelourinho and downtown – Take the famous Lacerda Elevator from the Praça Tomé de Sousa in the upper city down to the Mercado Modelo, and from there take a short taxi ride to the Ferry Boat terminal (Terminal Marítimo São Joaquim). You might be tempted to walk there, but you shouldn't (for various reasons).
From the Salvador airport – There is a direct local bus that goes from the Salvador airport and passes in front of the ferry boat terminal (Terminal Maritimo). You should only take the bus if you can communicate at least at a bare minimum in Portuguese… a little goes a long way here. DO NOT take the local bus that requires a bus change in downtown Salvador. If in doubt, take a regular taxi from the airport, which costs between 65 and 85 reais depending on the time of day.
Step 2 - Ferry Crossing from Salvador to Bom Despacho, Itaparica
Once at the terminal just follow the signs to "Bilhetes" to buy your tickets. The ferries leave on the hour every hour on the hour, and you will be crossing the scenic Bay of All Saints to the island of Itaparica and the port town of Bom Despacho. It's safe, fun, and a great way to meet people, even if you don't speak Portuguese! Current prices are between R$ 14 and R$ 20 depending on the day of the week.
Departure Times: Every hour on the hour starting at 05:00
Time of ferry crossing: 1 hour
Step 3 - Bus from Bom Despacho to Graciosa
Tip: Going to Graciosa by bus is the easiest way to go direct to Boipeba. Some say go to Valenca, boat to Morro, Morro de Boipeba. Graciosa involves the least number of connections, and the speedboat will take you directly to Velha Boipeba, the center of Boipeba. Graciosa is after Valenca, just before the town of Taperoa.
After docking in Bom Despacho, you will descend the boat ramp and immediately see the ticket booths and the buses. Go to the bus company Aguia Branca or Cidade Sol, and buy the first available ticket to Camamu, Itacare of Ilheus, all of which will pass by the pier of Graciosa, which is just before Taperoa.
Travel time: 1 hour by ferry, 2.5 hours by bus, 40 minutes speedboat Graciosa to Valenca.
Check times and prices on the link below:
By Boat + Pick-up Truck
Step 1: Catamaran
There is a fast boat called a catamaran that leaves from Terminal Maraitimo Mercado Modelo, which is located at the base of the famous Lacerda Elevator (Elevador Lacerda). This fast boat, however, only goes to Morro de Sao Paulo.
This boat takes 2.5 hours to get to Morro de Sao Paulo and travels over open ocean, which may not be suitable for everyone. It is very safe, however it may rock quite a bit, so consider going by land if you get queasy on boats.
Step 2: Pick-up Truck on the Island of Tinhare
After arriving in Morro de Sao Paulo, you need to cross the center on foot until you arrive at the “Receptivo”, which is the departure point for the “jardineiras”, which are pick-up trucks with benches in the back. This walk will take around 20 but you get to see Morro de Sao Paulo… bring water!
The pick-up takes about 1 hour to get to the southern tip of Tinhare, where you still need to cross a river by small boat (included in the price of the pick-up. After the short crossing you be in Velha Boipeba, the main center of Boipeba Island.
Private Transfer from Salvador to Itacaré
You must first get to the Island of Itaparica, which we will describe below:
From the airport, you can take a taxi or Uber from Salvador airport (or downtown) to one of the maritime terminals, where they take a boat to Itaparica Island. There are two options for the crossing: the Mercado Modelo maritime terminal, where you take one of the normal boats to Mar Grande, or the São Joaquim maritime terminal, from where the ferry departs for Bom Despacho. Generally, the best option is the boats leaving from the Mercado Modelo maritime terminal... they are faster and leave more frequently.
From the Pelourinho, you will need to get the Terminal Maritimo Mercado Modelo, which is located near the bottom of the famous Lacerda Elevator. This is an easy walk for those staying in the Pelourinho. From the boat terminal, you will need a ticket for one of frequent boats (every 40 minutes) to the Terminal Vera Cruz (Mar Grande), on the Island of Itaparica (Ilha de Itaparica).
Cost of the boat crossing: Around 15 BRL
Average time: 4 hours and 30 minutes
Step 2: Our driver will wait for you with a sign in Mar Grande or Bom Despacho to start your transfer to Itacaré.
There is an option to go via the continent where no boats are involved, but this option is cheaper and quicker, and certainly more scenic (see map above).
Average travel times:
- Salvador Airport to the boat terminals - 40 minutes
- Crossing the Baía de Todos os Santos - 40 minutes by normal boat, 1 hour by ferry
- Transfer between Itaparica and Itacaré - 4 ½ to 5 hours
Get a quote for a private transfer!
How to get to Boipeba from Itacare
Interactive map Boipeba x Barra Grande x Itacaré
Coming from Itacare, there are 2 options to get to Boipeba:
By Private Transfer
This is the fastest and most convenient way to get to Boipeba from Itacare. A private car will take you from your lodging in Itacare directly to the boat landing in the small town of Graciosa.
The speedboats from Graciosa depart every 1 to 2 hours, however they usually have another boat ready if there are people waiting.
Travel time by transfer: 2 hours and 20 minutes, 50 minutes by speedboat
By Bus
If you prefer going to Boipeba by bus, you can catch one of the frequent buses from Itacare that go to Valenca or Bom Despacho. Your destination is the small village called Graciosa, which is just a few minutes after the town of Taperoa. You need to make sure and tell the bus driver you wish to stop and Graciosa, otherwise he will not stop!
The speedboats from Graciosa depart every 1 to 2 hours, however they usually have another boat ready if there are people waiting.
Travel time by bus: approximately 3 hours.
For times and prices, check the link below...
Where to Stay on Ilha de Boipeba
Before choosing a place to stay on Boipeba, it’s important to understand the differences between the two main villages on the island, Velha Boipeba and Morere. Velha Boipeba is the main entry point onto the island, and contains the majority of the hotels and pousadas, restaurants and shopping. There is no nightlife to speak of, but most of the town’s residents and visitors gather in the town center at night to eat and drink, shop, or just socialize. Morere is more remote, accessible by a one hour walk or by the island’s only public transportation, the tractor-bus. Some of Boipeba’s best hotels are located here, and it’s the best choice for those who appreciate nature and don’t mind the isolation and a little extra travel time.
Vila Sereia – Good value and charming, on the beach
There is a beautiful garden for lounging and sunbathing, with the beach just steps away.
The village is less than 10 minutes' walk away, and the pier is a 15-minute walk from the pousada. On arrival, you can hire a porter for your luggage.
Availability and pricing on Booking.com
O Ceu de Boipeba - Rustic, great views and very cool
The structure is made entirely of wood. Each room has its own private balcony. The view can be enjoyed without getting out of bed, as the walls are all sliding glass.
The village center is a 15-minute walk away. Our top pick if you can get a reservation. And by the way, awesome sunsets!
Availability and pricing on Booking.com
Pousada Sossego - Close to center, value for money
The rooms have air-conditioning, a fan, minibar, Wi-Fi and a balcony with a hammock. Simple, but without sacrificing comfort.
Typical Bahian cuisine is served in the restaurant. Breakfast is served in an area with a beautiful view of the gardens. The pousada accepts pets, and offers a house for up to ten people.
Availability and pricing on Booking.com
Colibri Beach Villas - 4 star, great location, beachfront
Recently built on Boca da Barra beach, Colibri Beach Villas have three two-bedroom villas with full kitchen facilities. The architecture, decoration and finishes are next level for the island of Boipeba.
Great pool right by the beach, and the village is less than 10 minutes' walk, and the pier is a 15-minute walk from the pousada.
Availability and pricing on Booking.com
Pousada Velha Boipeba
Breakfast is plentiful and varied, and there are always specialty items prepared by the innkeeper.
Boca da Barra beach is a 15-minute walk away. And the pier is a 10-minute walk from the pousada. You can hire a porter if you don't want to drag your suitcase up the hill to the center.
Availability and pricing on Booking.com
Pousada Santa Clara
It is close to the beach, and the pousada is home to the most famous restaurant on the island, and guarantees its guests preferential reservations.
The beach is a 5-minute walk away, and the town center is less than 10 minutes away, and the pier is a 20-minute walk from the pousada.
The food here is exceptional, and worth a stay here for that reason alone.
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Cool Stops on the way to Boipeba
Scenic overlook in Serra Grande
This is the most asked for quick stop along the way to Itacare. It's on the main road, and taking a few quick pics will take less than a minute!
Cabana da Empada
A great quick stop if you're looking for a quick and filling snack! They are ready to eat, and if you're in a hurry you can get it go.
Cardápio das empadas na Cabana da Empada
Frequently Asked Questions - Boipeba
Video of Boipeba, Bahia
We found this great little video on Boipeba that does a good job showing the highlights of Boipeba. This is not our content, we are merely sharing it under YouTube's Fair Use policy.